Quinta da Oliveira

Now that you have read the story of our quinta, here are some practical matters to help you settle in and make the most of your stay in Fajã de Cima. The village may be small, but it holds everything you need—and a few surprises that make it feel like home.

The Windmill

Our village has one proper tourist attraction: the Moinho de Vento, a traditional Azorean windmill perched on the hill above us. It is a good climb—approximately 300 metres uphill—but well worth the effort. The views from the top are excellent, and if you have just arrived after a day in an aeroplane (or weeks at sea, should you have come by boat), this makes for the perfect first Azorean experience: fresh air, a little exercise, and a taste of what the island has to offer.

Dining in the Village

Cervejaria Cuca sits just ten metres from your guesthouse—a friendly village bar where locals gather and time moves at its own pace. Silvio, the big-hearted owner from Madeira, and Mário, the elder gentleman from Fajã de Cima itself, offer a fine selection of drinks and snacks at honest prices. If you are feeling brave, ask for a Sandes com Queijo e Fiambre (cheese and ham sandwich) at any hour. During the day, they also serve Bifana (pork sandwich), Bitoque (steak with egg and fries), and crispy batatas fritas.

Restaurant Fontenário, seventy metres down the street towards the church, offers lunch and dinner in buffet form. Here you will find the most authentic Azorean cuisine—dishes that change daily and taste better than what the guidebooks recommend in downtown Ponta Delgada. This is where the locals eat, and for good reason.

A new arrival, Smashburger Fajã de Cima, has opened 250 metres past the church. We have yet to test it ourselves, but word in the village says it is worth the walk.

Further along—1.5 kilometres down the street towards the church—you will find Quinta dos Açores, an agricultural producer that operates a restaurant as a showroom for their ingredients. Unlike most restaurants, it is open throughout the day and does not follow traditional lunch or dinner hours—perfect for whenever hunger strikes. The restaurant is excellent for families with children, and sits next to Parque Urbano, a fantastic park for a walk, a play, or a run. Quinta dos Açores also boasts the largest ice cream selection in the archipelago, all made by the producer themselves. The Santa Maria melon, ananás dos Açores, and the chocolate ice cream made from São Jorge cheese are particularly worth tasting.

When you venture further afield, we provide a map of our favourite restaurants across the island—so you can plan your adventures around where you will eat. Look for the QR code in Lounge Garagem.

Uber Eats and Glovo also provide food delivery services on the island. And if you ever need to resort to fast food, it is worth knowing that Burger King uses local ingredients here—and you can taste the difference. The other fast food chains rely on imported, processed, and frozen ingredients.

Village Shops & Services

One hundred metres uphill from the quinta—in the direction of Cuca, not the church—you will find Carlos, our local butcher. Do not be fooled by the humble appearance of his shop. Carlos provides absolutely fantastic organic Atlantic beef and pork, raised in the Azorean tradition. It is worth a visit.

In the same direction you will find a pharmacy, and behind it sits the Junta de Freguesia (the parish council building), which also has an ATM. Things do not cost much here in São Miguel, and for small purchases cash always works well.

Heading the other way—one hundred metres down the road towards the church, on the right in a small side street—is the Mini Mercado. Look for the very small sign, or simply watch for people going in and out. It does not look fancy from the outside, and the inside may feel rather chaotic, but do not let that deter you. They carry fresh bread daily, a somewhat interesting selection of everyday items, and an amazing collection of local wines and spirits. If you speak the local language, this is also the place to catch up on the village gossip.

Fresh Produce & Markets

The easiest way to get fresh fruits and vegetables is from the vegetable truck that stops in the village several times a week. No need to travel anywhere—just listen for the horn or ask us about the schedule.

On Thursday mornings, the Mercado Agrícola de Santana comes alive from 8am until noon. This outdoor farmers' market is not as comprehensive as the one in downtown Ponta Delgada, but it offers something the city cannot: live farm animals for sale. Chickens, rabbits, and yes, even peacocks change hands here. Why not discover how much a peacock would cost? The market draws mostly locals, almost no tourists, and offers some of the best prices on the island for fruits and vegetables. Bring cash.

For the full experience, visit Mercado da Graça in downtown Ponta Delgada—a historic market dating back to 1860. Open every day except Sunday, it is the island's largest and best destination for fresh produce, fish, meat, and cheese. You will find the famous Azorean pineapples grown in local greenhouses, fresh tuna and swordfish, local sausages like chouriço and morcela, and a wonderful selection of Azorean cheeses. Friday afternoons and Saturdays are the busiest—and best—times to visit, when all the vendors are present.

São Miguel does have modern supermarkets—Pingo Doce and Continente—but their fresh produce selection is not particularly impressive. This is because everyone here buys their fruits and vegetables the way we do: straight from the farmers.

Getting Around the Island

The best way to explore São Miguel is by car or scooter. The traffic here is remarkably polite—so polite that newcomers often find it unsettling at first.

Many two-way streets have only one lane of moving traffic, as the other is used for parking. When you see a vehicle approaching, both drivers share the responsibility of finding a solution. The one who is not in their own lane will pull aside into an available gap. To signal that you are yielding, put on your left indicator and move to the side. If you are on your lane and spot a good space for the other driver, you can flash your headlights twice to let them know. If someone flashes their lights at you, they are telling you it is safe to proceed—they have found a spot and are waiting for you.

It takes a little getting used to, but soon enough you will find yourself nodding and flashing lights like a local.

Exploring the Island

When travelling around São Miguel, always bring sunglasses and a rain jacket—regardless of what the sky looks like when you leave or what the forecast says. The weather here has a mind of its own and can change several times in a single day.

We also recommend keeping swimming gear with you at all times. You may stumble upon a fantastic natural hot spring, or simply decide to take a dip in the sea. The ocean here is often warmer than the air throughout the year—and opportunities to swim have a way of presenting themselves when you least expect them.

Our Animal Friends

The quinta is home to a small family of creatures who take their jobs very seriously.

The Chickens

Our brown layer hens are led by Betsy, the undisputed lead chicken, with one rooster named Yahya—of Indonesian heritage. Together they provide us with eggs, entertainment, and excellent garden fertilisation services. They can be treated to a bit of São Jorge cheese if you wish to make friends, but keep it modest. Chickens should never be let into any of the houses.

From time to time, you may also see white chickens on the property. These are seasonal meat birds who stay with us for a few months before being taken to the matadouro. Compared to factory farming, they experience five times the lifespan and a very comfortable life here at Quinta da Oliveira. We believe in treating all our animals well, even those we eventually eat.

The Cats

Manis, the father, is orange and white. Susu, the mother, is fully white. Their daughter Miniso is also white. This family handles pest control with dedication and provides no shortage of entertainment. They are extremely friendly with people—but show their true hunting nature when mice, rats, or birds are involved. The cats live outdoors and must not be let into any building. Once inside, it takes hours to coax them out, and each time makes the next attempt more difficult. So please, no matter how charming their eyes, keep the doors closed.

Lounge Garagem

You have complimentary access to Lounge Garagem, located next to Largo Piazza—the covered square between Largo and Canada guesthouses. Inside you will find local tea, Rose's Roast coffee roasted (and partly grown) here at the quinta, breakfast items and snacks, wine, and other beverages.

The space is equipped with a stove, air fryer, laundry machine, and dishwasher for your use. There is also a portable JBL speaker available—feel free to connect and play your own music while you cook or relax.

Largo Piazza itself is a sheltered courtyard where you can sit comfortably even when the weather turns windy or rainy—a common enough occurrence in the Azores.

Staying Connected

Tap Water

The tap water in São Miguel is safe to drink. It comes from natural springs and is of excellent quality.

Trash Collection

Trash is collected between 18:00 and 20:00 on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from the corner of Cervejaria Cuca. It is easy to see where others put their bags—simply place yours in the same spot before collection time.

Beach Club & Private Facilities

Adjacent to our main residence lies the Beach Club, with a sauna, pool, and outdoor barbecue area. You are most likely invited to use these facilities during your stay—simply check with us to confirm.

We ask only that you remain mindful that people live here and may also wish to enjoy their home. A certain level of privacy and courtesy goes a long way. We have invested in fantastic guesthouses and separate facilities precisely so that everyone—guests and residents alike—can enjoy their time here in comfort. Longer stays especially benefit from this arrangement, as having your own space keeps everything running smoothly.